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The Art Of Filigree


The art of filigree is one of the oldest and most beautiful art forms developed by man. Its magnificent arrangement of delicately interwoven wires have patterns and intricacies more in keeping with the natural world of vines than that of man made jewellery. The complex twists and weaves of its dainty metal work introduce the element of space in what would otherwise be a solid object. This unique aspect is what makes filigree stridently different from all other types of jewellery.

The word filigree is derived from the Latin word filum meaning thread. In Sardinia it is a traditional technique that can be traced back thousands of years. Passed down from generation to generation this closely guarded craft requires endless diligence, patience and commitment to master. 

The act of making filigree consists of tightly twisting fine wire to create a ridged pattern. This wire is then twisted and formed into various circular, harmonious shapes which are soldered together to create a larger piece. Hand crafted filigree requires hours of concentration. Despite being a specialized skill for the modern jeweller that might be considered too time consuming and labour intensive to tackle, in ancient times it was part of the repertoire of skills of every jeweller.

In ancient Sardinia filigree jewellery was made in honour of the beauty and grace of the female form. For them the only way to reach this level of precision and intricacy was to make it by hand. Today, this miniature work of art is as appreciated for its linage as it is for the skilful work and imaginative designs it is characteristic of.

The whole process starts with preparing the filigree and the parts that compose the jewellery.  Once these are ready the filigree rings are soldered onto a plate to create the pattern of the piece.

The traditional welding method that is used for all KOKKU pieces is by blowing heat onto the piece to get the parts to partly fuse together.  It is a very slow and difficult process that requires endless patience and composure to reach to the pattern desired without melting the parts to fuse together.  The result of this process is however the cleanest and most accurate of all welding methods as can be seen by the finished rings.

What makes KOKKU filigree jewellery unique?

Blending the old with the new, KOKKU combines traditional skill with contemporary design and exclusively patented techniques by local Sardinian artisans to produce beautiful, vibrant and desirable jewellery of the highest standards.

There are two significant innovations in KOKKU’s pieces. The first being size of the thread used. Some of our jewellery is decorated with filigree made of a thread as fine as 0.1 mm in diameter. The second is the use of the filigree itself. In traditional workmanship the filigree was used as a decorative embellishment to the piece. However, the filigree used by KOKKU provides more of a structural support for the design. 

Both these elements work together to transform sophisticated pieces by making them light weight and easy to wear without compromising the characteristics of high quality jewellery.

KOKKU jewellery is an excellent choice for any discerning buyer. Its flawless craftsmanship and intricate detail perfectly complete the natural beauty and elegance of anyone fortunate enough to wear it.